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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any pictures or write up's on how's best to cut down a G3 forearm to fit on a -51 or -53? I was just wondering if it's better to start on one end or the other, how to get the metal end bracket off and then reattached it.

As always, I appreciate all the help I get from everyone here.
 

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For your information, I did a G3 wood forearm from the back for a HK93 and it was not all that hard.

One rivet needed to be removed on the back and I never reinstalled it.

Turned out pretty good.

Thanks,

DonS1
 

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For your information, I did a G3 wood forearm from the back for a HK93 and it was not all that hard.

One rivet needed to be removed on the back and I never reinstalled it.
I did it exactly the opposite... left the rear alone and trimmed the front. I also didn't bother re-riveting the metal back on... it was a press fit. No need to rivet.
 

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Shattered, I don't suppose that you have a picture of the shortened / modified end with the bracket off? I would really like to see a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish.

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-30

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07 i drilled out the back & measured carefully , wacked it off on my miter saw , replaced the ring with no problems..
 

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Very nice, love the wood. I want to modify stocks for my 33 like one of the other members here.
 

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Cool, guess I need to pull the trigger on the wood over at Centerfire, unless I come across some at the creek.
 

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Shattered, I don't suppose that you have a picture of the shortened / modified end with the bracket off? I would really like to see a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish.
Ummm, no I don't... and it's really kind of driven on or I'd pop it off for you, but I have a pic of the foreend here somewhere.
 

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I just did one, re-cut the front with an aluminum template and flush trim router bit.



Here's the metal cap slid back on, before I trimmed down the wood flush.

If I were doing it again, I'd probably leave it similar to the pic, with just a chamfer and some stain to match (another member on militaryfirearm.com suggested that)

Here's the template, with another for doing the buttstock.

There are a couple top bearing router bits that are just the right length for making these cuts and keeping the bearing on the template. The one in the pic is a bottom bearing bit for making the template using a surplus stock as a guide.

Notice the wood is not walnut. Kind of took me by surprise. Bit of a pain to re-stain it, but that's the way it goes sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Those are very nice pictures. Thanks. I wish I had wood working skills and tools. I'm afraid I'm going to be tackling it with a dremel. How much length did you cut off? What are you planning and putting it on?
 

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That one is for a guy who is dressing up a C93. He gave me a length measurement, 9" to the pin hole.

I took the rivets off with a large burr in a rotary tool (Foredom in my case, your Dremel will work fine). I just carefully cut the folded over part of the rivets off and punched the remainder through. I may end up making some new rivets, mine's not as snug a fit as Shattered Mind got.
 

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If you won't want to re-rivet the metal back, you can always use some epoxy and hold it strong. I purchased one set off GB, reviewed it really well and now I'm working on making them for all my toys.

I'll see what I can come up with in the way of pictures.

Very nice Router Guides JDowney!
 
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