Wood furniture on -51 -53

18761 Views 52 Replies 33 Participants Last post by Albatross, May 12, 2017

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · Oct 11, 2011

Does anyone have any pictures or write up's on how's best to cut down a G3 forearm to fit on a -51 or -53? I was just wondering if it's better to start on one end or the other, how to get the metal end bracket off and then reattached it.

As always, I appreciate all the help I get from everyone here.

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DonS1

· #2 · Oct 11, 2011

For your information, I did a G3 wood forearm from the back for a HK93 and it was not all that hard.

One rivet needed to be removed on the back and I never reinstalled it.

Turned out pretty good.

Thanks,

DonS1

Silvertip

· #3 · Oct 11, 2011

I don't have any instructions, but here is a picture that I downloaded from mg42.com of a Rheinmetal G3 converted to the 51 configuration. It gives a good visual of how the fore end was modified.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa219/Silvertip3/G3inHK51configwithwoodstockandfe.jpg

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 11, 2011

Great picture. Thanks!! DonS1, you didn't have to re-rivit the metal bracket back on after you modified it? I'm worried about stability, especially with my dremil skills.

Shattered Mind

· #5 · Oct 11, 2011

DonS1 said:
For your information, I did a G3 wood forearm from the back for a HK93 and it was not all that hard.

One rivet needed to be removed on the back and I never reinstalled it.

I did it exactly the opposite... left the rear alone and trimmed the front. I also didn't bother re-riveting the metal back on... it was a press fit. No need to rivet.

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 11, 2011

Shattered, I don't suppose that you have a picture of the shortened / modified end with the bracket off? I would really like to see a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish.

SLEEPWALKERV

· #7 · Oct 11, 2011 (Edited)

4

hunter5482 said:
Shattered, I don't suppose that you have a picture of the shortened / modified end with the bracket off? I would really like to see a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish.

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-30

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07

By sleepwalkerv at 2011-04-07 i drilled out the back & measured carefully , wacked it off on my miter saw , replaced the ring with no problems..

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DonS1

· #8 · Oct 11, 2011

hunter5482 said:
DonS1, you didn't have to re-rivit the metal bracket back on after you modified it? I'm worried about stability, especially with my dremil skills.

No need to re-rivet. It was a tight fit on the rifle and was more stable than the handguard that came with it.

Just go slow and all will be good.

Thanks,

DonS1

RonT

· #9 · Oct 12, 2011

Very nice, love the wood. I want to modify stocks for my 33 like one of the other members here.

DonS1

· #10 · Oct 12, 2011

RonT said:
Very nice, love the wood. I want to modify stocks for my 33 like one of the other members here.

Fairly easy to do. Just take your time.

Thanks,

DonS1

RonT

· #11 · Oct 12, 2011

Cool, guess I need to pull the trigger on the wood over at Centerfire, unless I come across some at the creek.

Shattered Mind

· #12 · Oct 12, 2011

hunter5482 said:
Shattered, I don't suppose that you have a picture of the shortened / modified end with the bracket off? I would really like to see a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish.

Ummm, no I don't... and it's really kind of driven on or I'd pop it off for you, but I have a pic of the foreend here somewhere.

mikeb

· #13 · Oct 12, 2011

RonT said:
Cool, guess I need to pull the trigger on the wood over at Centerfire, unless I come across some at the creek.

Or RobertRTG.com where the buttstock, handguard, buttplate and grip are $19.

HK G3 HK91 Wood Stock Set, RTG Gun Parts

I have had nothing but good experiences dealing with them.

jdowney

· #14 · Oct 13, 2011 (Edited)

4

I just did one, re-cut the front with an aluminum template and flush trim router bit.

Here's the metal cap slid back on, before I trimmed down the wood flush.

If I were doing it again, I'd probably leave it similar to the pic, with just a chamfer and some stain to match (another member on militaryfirearm.com suggested that)

Here's the template, with another for doing the buttstock.

There are a couple top bearing router bits that are just the right length for making these cuts and keeping the bearing on the template. The one in the pic is a bottom bearing bit for making the template using a surplus stock as a guide.

Notice the wood is not walnut. Kind of took me by surprise. Bit of a pain to re-stain it, but that's the way it goes sometimes.

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Viper5243

· #15 · Oct 13, 2011

what are the differences between the 91/g3 and the 53 stocks? I was thinking doing a wood stock and handguard for a 53 i have coming in.

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · #16 · Oct 13, 2011

Those are very nice pictures. Thanks. I wish I had wood working skills and tools. I'm afraid I'm going to be tackling it with a dremel. How much length did you cut off? What are you planning and putting it on?

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · #17 · Oct 13, 2011

Really stupid question here. How did you get the rivet off? Did you drill it out or can you pull / pry it off?

jdowney

· #18 · Oct 13, 2011

That one is for a guy who is dressing up a C93. He gave me a length measurement, 9" to the pin hole.

I took the rivets off with a large burr in a rotary tool (Foredom in my case, your Dremel will work fine). I just carefully cut the folded over part of the rivets off and punched the remainder through. I may end up making some new rivets, mine's not as snug a fit as Shattered Mind got.

Jesser

· #19 · Oct 13, 2011

If you won't want to re-rivet the metal back, you can always use some epoxy and hold it strong. I purchased one set off GB, reviewed it really well and now I'm working on making them for all my toys.

I'll see what I can come up with in the way of pictures.

Very nice Router Guides JDowney!

hunter5482

Discussion Starter · #20 · Oct 13, 2011

Is there some reason why some places are selling wood sets for $80-90, where others have them for $20. Are they better / higher quality? In better shape? or just charging more?

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