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H&K Certified Armorer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When having a barrel parkerized, how does the process affect the rifling? Specifcally, I'm considering refinishing my HK91. Having experince with airgun/brush painting, I'll end-up Duracoating it myself but will have to take it somewhere for parkerizing (as from what I've been reading appears to be the proper base treatment). So I end up with my original question... how does parkerizing affect the rifling, specifically on an HK91 barrel?

Also, I've read there are several different parkerizing methods with respect to the chemicals used. Can anyone tell me which is the preferred for HK's?

Thanks!
 

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If done properly, the barrel will be plugged at muzzle and chamber before submersion in the parkerizing chemicals; the rifling and chamber will remain unparkerized. Parkerizing the rifling would lead to excessive fouling due to the rough surface. Parkerizing the chamber would lead to extraction problems. As to the preferred type of parkerizing, there are two main types--manganese phosphate and zink phosphate. Zink phosphate tends to be gray to light gray in color. Manganese phosphate is dark gray to almost black in color, which I think would be more appropriate for HK.
 

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H&K Certified Armorer
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks OD!
 

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Shootersolutions.com has lots of info about it. I had an old HK91 barrel I did for my first park job - I ran a long piece of brass all-thread through it, then tapered rubber stoppers backed up by stainless nuts and washers. The inside was perfectly clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool cool... thanks Dave!
 

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You know guys, I've parkerized more barrels than I care to remember and have come to realize that it doesn't hurt them.
I've done chrome and non chrome lined from .22 to 12 gauge and the parkerizing does not affect accuracy past the first couple of rounds.
Heck, you can rub park off a blasted surface, one not prepped won't hold it well at all.
Besides, in some cases you can't avoid getting it in some barrels, most notably those with gas ports.
A good cleaning will remove the fouling caused by the barrel being dipped in park solution.
And that includes H&K barrels, I've refinished 3 MP5s without worrying about plugging the barrels and have seen no difference in accuracy or dependability.

ETA:
I use Manganese Phosphate, it gives a dary Grey finish that's a perfect base for DuraCoat or KG Gun Kote.
 

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You know guys, I've parkerized more barrels than I care to remember and have come to realize that it doesn't hurt them.
I've done chrome and non chrome lined from .22 to 12 gauge and the parkerizing does not affect accuracy past the first couple of rounds.
Heck, you can rub park off a blasted surface, one not prepped won't hold it well at all.
Besides, in some cases you can't avoid getting it in some barrels, most notably those with gas ports.
A good cleaning will remove the fouling caused by the barrel being dipped in park solution.
And that includes H&K barrels, I've refinished 3 MP5s without worrying about plugging the barrels and have seen no difference in accuracy or dependability.

ETA:
I use Manganese Phosphate, it gives a dary Grey finish that's a perfect base for DuraCoat or KG Gun Kote.
Yeah, I know you can and it shouldn't hurt anything at all, especially since most are chrome-lined anyhow, but it doesn't take any time to block it off either. The ones I did were for someone else and I didn't want them to call me back and say "hey, why is the inside of my barrel black?"
 

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Yeah, I know you can and it shouldn't hurt anything at all, especially since most are chrome-lined anyhow, but it doesn't take any time to block it off either. The ones I did were for someone else and I didn't want them to call me back and say "hey, why is the inside of my barrel black?"
True that.
Of course for some of the sewer pipes people have sent me to work on, it would be an improvement over the Grey/Green/Copper/Rust color that shows up on my doorstep.
You'd think that if they're going to spend a small fortune on these weapons, they could at least clean them every once in a while!
 

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I have also parkerized around a hunderd or so barrels over the last 10 or 15 years and never plugged one. I have never noticed any ill effects but I do take care to hose out the bore and then clean it immediately after it comes out of the solution. If the solution is not removed you could end up with a rough chamber like the old NESARD AR15 barrels.
 

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Not to resurrect this from the dead, but it's along the same lines as the question I was just going to post, so why not? :tongue:

When building a G3 (or MP, AK, or other flat-based build) from a new flat, new trunnion and new barrel, where in the assembly process do I want to parkerize the raw/exposed steel? Those of you who build these for a living/hobby (PCS, Dakota, etc.) what is your preference?

My thoughts: Press/weld the barrel/trunnion together, install into the flat, function check everything, and then plug the barrel parkerize the whole shebang. But, what if I want to keep the finish on the new barrel and just treat the flat and exposed steel of the trunnion?

I'll end up spraying a Cerakote or DuraCoat on the whole setup once everything is finished, but I believe I want a good metal treatment if the Cerakote/DuraCoat wears off.
 
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