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I have a coharie 40 SBR clone. Runs great, love it to death... Has the threaded and 3 lug barrel.

Local gun show today, guy have a vector 40 clone, and had a KAC 10mm can attached. He did offer to sell the can seperate from the rest of the gun. Question is, whats it worth? And can anyone other than the guy trying to sell it to me, say how quiet it is relative to other supressed options?

I have been longing for a MP5sd, and heard RDTS's 40 version is quieter than the 9, but haven't pulled the trigger....

So thoughts on KAC value?

The can was used, and looked used, although I live about 30 minutes from KAC, I have never tried any work with them, but I assume that they could fix or replace this can if there were issues in the future, even if for a fee.

Thanks
 

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The Navy .40/10mm cans are still available from KAC.
They are no longer in production, but they still have stock available for dealers to order.

MSRP on them is $1350 new from KAC, obviously less if it is used.
 

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Urban Knight

I have a suggestion, just be sure that the cohaire clones' barrel is threaded to the std. Hk 40/10mm threading. I am sure that the KAC suppressor is. Here is a pic of the MP5/10 with the KAC 10mm suppressor on it. An MP5/40 is in the foreground.

 

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Personally I have no experience with the KAC 10mm can. My understanding is like other KAC cans they might not be the most quiet can but have very durable construction. The big reason to me why I bought a Gemtech Raptor 40 is the 3-lug mount. The Raptor 40 is the only .40 caliber 3-lug mount subgun can that I'm aware of. It is full power 10mm full auto rated by Gemtech. I have personal experience with shooting an original Raptor 9mm can a a very full auto subgun match to destruction.

At a ISSMC match there was a particular stage where there were five shooting stations with six targets at each station. The targets were arranged in ascending order from lower right to upper left, in ascending order from lower left to upper right, in a "U" shape, in an upside down "U", etc. Once the targets were engaged, the trigger had to be held down until all targets were neutralized or the mag ran dry. If the trigger was released, the mag had to be pulled from the gun and shown clear from the receiver. The mag could then be reinserted and the targets reengaged. But again, if all the targets were not neutralized, if the gun stopped, the mag would need to be pulled again.

I was running a M16 9mm with a TROS 5" 3-ug barrel inside a mid YHM free float rail. I had 12 Colt 32 rd mags with 30 rds in each. At the last station with two targets left and the last mag in the gun, I had stopped and showed clear. I looked at the mag and knew I didn't have many rounds left. I reinserted the mag and engaged the first target. The second round fired was much louder than the first. I felt a gas blast on my left hand on the vertical grip. I let go of the trigger. I could see the Raptor can melt through the tarp that was spread out to catch brass. The mount with the first blast baffle was still on the 3-lug barrel. At that point the RO said I had an equipment failure and must stop. I had no plans to try to knock down the single remaining target.

The inside of the registered tube was threaded to thread in the end cap with the 3-lug mount. This was right where the gas off the blast baffle hit the outside tube. Since the tube was thinner because of the threads and where the gas leaving the barrel hit the outside tube, that is where the can failed. So that used Raptor can failed after 358 rds (there were two rounds left in the last mag) in something like a minute and a half. That was not a bright thing to do. To his credit, I sent Dr. Dater the two halves of my Raptor can. He eliminated one baffle and made the can into Raptor II configuration.

I'm not a fan of thread on cans. I much prefer a 3-lug mount. KAC cans are pricey. They make a quality product. If you do a search, I recall there have been a couple of threads about the 10mm KAC cans. After speaking with Todd, he said that his .40 caliber SD can would hold up to 10mm. Of course if I could get a custom made 10mm SD barrel, it would be very pricey. Jeff is building me two Vector .40 S&W SDs from kits I bought from Todd. Good luck with your 10mm can project.

Scott
 

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scottinthegrove

Here is a slightly different pic with a 3-lug attached Raptor, not the Raptor2 version, attached to the MP5/40. You will probably find this hard to believe but I have never shot either weapon with or without their suppressors. When Terry Dyer made them, he of course test fired them but they have not be shot since.

 

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FYI the Raptor and Raptor II are for 9mm only. The Raptor 40 is the Raptor 40. The guns are beautiful. If they make you happy being "safe queens" more power to you. I noticed a tag line another member had. It is more my style. Not shooting your guns is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she will be in better condition for her next boyfriend, or something like that. The only "safe queen" type of gun I own is a Johnson rifle in 7mm Mauser. Since it is a piece of history, I only shoot it on special occasions. My Savage built Thompson M1A1 is a REWATT, so it goes to the monthly subgun matches quite often.

Again, I mean no offense. Your guns and cans are beautiful. I would not be able to have them sit. I'd want to shoot them and feel the recoil, hear the suppression of the cans. Thank you for sharing the pictures.

Scott
 

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Big difference in value when comparing a ballistics receiver vs a sw. I shoot my sear guns and leave the investments alone.
 

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scottinthegrove

No offense taken thank for the Raptor clarification. I always learn something by frequentlng the boards. I long ago discovered that there are essentially two types of machinegun owners - collectors and shooters. One spends his money on weapons the other on ammo. If I were weathy I would do both but life is a series of choises. Now don't get me wrong, I have two big safes full of nothing but ammo but its more like the "rainy day SHTF' stash.
 

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Gemtech refers to the Raptor and Raptor-40 as both the "Raptor series," and "Raptor family"...so both are "Raptors."
Sorry I wasn't clearer with my explanation. My understanding is the 9mm Raptor, 9mm Raptor II, and the Raptor 40 are all in the Raptor series. Each of the three models are based on similar construction. Dr. Dater told me the basic difference between the original Raptor and the Raptor II is that the Raptor II has one less baffle in it. He said that there was a significant weight difference but not a significant sound difference so current construction of 9mm Raptor cans are in the series II configuration. The .40 caliber Raptor 40 came out long after the original Raptor. To my knowledge there has not been any changes in configuration to the .40 caliber Raptor.

I was lucky enough to find a used Gemtech MK9K in .40 caliber. It came with an original thread mount end cap for the MP5-40. I've never been a big fan of thread mounted cans. I seem to have to retighten my HEMS II can after every mag when installed on my Mark 23. I had Dr. Dater put a 3-lug end cap on the .40 caliber Raptor. He added the serial # of the can to both end caps. All he had in stock for 3-lug mounts were 9mm. I asked about a .40 caliber 3-lug. He said they had no .40 caliber mounts and was not planning to make anymore. The only .40 caliber 3-lug mount that Gemtech had were on Raptor 40 cans. A year later when Gemtech had their annual "Gem-Tax" promotion, I bought a Raptor 40 to get a .40 caliber 3-lug mount. Come to find out, the only difference between a MK9K mm 3-lug mount and a Raptor 40 3-lug mount is the inside diameter of the "piston" (the part of the mount that goes over the muzzle of the barrel). So I ordered two extra "pistons" and had one opened up to .40 caliber specs. So I can use both the Raptor 40 and .40 caliber MK9K with either 9mm or .40 caliber 3-lug hosts. Phillip told me that I should only use the .40 caliber MK9K for .40 S&W. He said the MK9K would not handle 10mm AUTO. He did say the Raptor 40 was full auto 10mm rated. I have kept the Raptor .40 (Jeff should be starting on a 10mm reverse stretch for me soon) because I eventually plan to have some 10mm hosts. YMMV.

Scott
 

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Dr. Dater told me the basic difference between the original Raptor and the Raptor II is that the Raptor II has one less baffle in it. He said that there was a significant weight difference but not a significant sound difference so current construction of 9mm Raptor cans are in the series II configuration.
Going from my memory, the Raptor II is shorter than the original Raptor, so the one less baffle makes sense.
 
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