I am looking for pics, maybe a tutorial, on pressing a barrel with the trunnion already welded into the receiver. The only pics I can find are of pressing a barrel into a trunnion that has not been welded to the receiver yet.
Barrel press situp w/pics ?
Flesh Thorn
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It's the plate that came with the press. Has different shape cutouts.
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Lol!! It's my 32 rifle, and yes it came apart that easy. I have been trying different parts and idea's on it for some time now and has been apart several times. I do know what you mean though. I use top of the line hand tools. Cheap pin punches will bend. Been there done that. My press is cheap though.Ok, I don't know what make that rifle was... but I'll be dammed if they are that easy to remove! First one I ever removed, I bent the punch and broke 2 HHS endmills trying to cut out the center. I use an arbor press now... and even with that I about sh*t my pants cause I have to pull down on the bar so hard.
I still need to make a removal jig though. I have the aluminum block stock already cut to size and tapped/threaded... just need to cut the shape of the receiver and drill the guide holes.
Dave... got any measurments?
I think you just need a bigger hammer. Hit it like you mean it!
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That's the only reason it came out that easy - the barrel has only recently been installed and/or removed. That's what a .002" interference fit requires. But no way that would have worked on any of the pins I've removed from barrels that have been shot a few thousand times. Firing them really pushes the barrel hard against the pin. My press has a pressure gauge on it, and it takes 4 tons for the pin to make it's first "pop", then about 1 ton to push it the rest of the way out.
Hell, I've run across bolt carrier locking lever pins that were harder to get out than that. And I use a BFH9000, not that little girly toy ball pein hammer you've got there.
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Dave,
Girly hammer. Come on man, your killing me. This is the way I have done all of my builds. Maybe 15 years as a millwright has given me stronger arms? Some have come out hard, but I do them all this way.
Removed my video's. Was just trying to help, but looks like my help isn't needed.
Girly hammer. Come on man, your killing me. This is the way I have done all of my builds. Maybe 15 years as a millwright has given me stronger arms? Some have come out hard, but I do them all this way.
Removed my video's. Was just trying to help, but looks like my help isn't needed.
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i thought it was helpful...please hammer, don't hurt em
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Me too. Especially for people that haven't tried it yet, like the OP.
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Aw, c'mon Kid... it ain't funny if you have to 'splain everything...I don't get it
. Ain't you been payin' attention to all the PTR beefs lately?
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Nice barrel pin press Dave...That is the same one I ask you about a few months ago. Have you built any extras for sale. I know you were talking about it. Sure could use one! Please put me on the top of your retail list. My new hobby is collecting gunsmith tools.
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+1
I’d also be interested in purchasing one of these jigs too.
This is slightly off the subject but…
Does anybody know of a source of a screw-type shop press? ( I’ve looked all over.)
I’d also be interested in purchasing one of these jigs too.
This is slightly off the subject but…
I’ve been told that a screw-type press is the best way to go, in regards to precisely attaining desired bolt gap, while pressing in barrels
.Does anybody know of a source of a screw-type shop press? ( I’ve looked all over.)
I took a scrap piece of 1 inch x 2 inch aluminum flat bar, and notched the end to fit in the magwell notch of the trunnion. That keeps the receiver from trying to rotate when installing the barrel pins. I might upgrade it to the clamshell type to make it even better.
So far as the screw method. Find a piece of all thread (Grade 8 or better, fine), about 6 inches longer than the barrel, that will fit thru the bore. Then find a piece of thick wall pipe the fits the trunnion cutouts in the front, and is an inch longer than the installed barrel sticking out of the trunnion. Couple nuts and heavy flat washers. One washer needs to be the same size as the chamber OD on the barrel, one needs to fit over your pipe. Pipe over barrel against trunnion. All thread thru bore, small washer and nut inside chamber, big washer and nut on other end. Turn until it comes out.
At least that is how I've seen it somewhere on the web.... I use a 20T press.
So far as the screw method. Find a piece of all thread (Grade 8 or better, fine), about 6 inches longer than the barrel, that will fit thru the bore. Then find a piece of thick wall pipe the fits the trunnion cutouts in the front, and is an inch longer than the installed barrel sticking out of the trunnion. Couple nuts and heavy flat washers. One washer needs to be the same size as the chamber OD on the barrel, one needs to fit over your pipe. Pipe over barrel against trunnion. All thread thru bore, small washer and nut inside chamber, big washer and nut on other end. Turn until it comes out.
At least that is how I've seen it somewhere on the web.... I use a 20T press.
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+1 here as well!!! That jig looks pretty slick.
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I found some, but they were crazy expensive compared to the 40T press I bought, and I bought a fancy schmancy 2-stage remote cylinder model for $700 shipped. The screw type were 5x as much. The key to getting them pressed right the first time is to rigidize your press table and plates. Friction is greatest when parts are not moving, then drops once they start to slide. So as pressure builds, the plates and press will all flex a little. Then once you build enough force to overcome the friction, it drops way down and the flexing parts all rebound to their natural state. This results in the small "pops" of movement that make you overshoot the distance you wanted. Even if you used a screw type, if the press frame flexes, you'd still have the overshooting issue. However, the ones I did find also weighed 3-4x as much (Mine is 500lbs as it is) because they were made of cast iron. They would be rigid, that's for sure, and the rigidity is where the precision comes from, not the force mechanism.
My Barrel Press is a 12 ton press.
And my drill fixture uses Drill Bushings and a Cheapo Angle Vise, drilled at the correct height. A small amount of set up and that's it. The Bushing guide the pre-drill, Finish drill and Reamer.
It's not currently set up but you get the idea.
I also align my Receiver/ Cocking tube Welding set up with a length of 7/8" Dia Brass machined [stepped] to .729" for the tube at one end and .785" on the rest. This fits perfectly for PTR91 Receivers and just snug for SW 93 Receivers.
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And my drill fixture uses Drill Bushings and a Cheapo Angle Vise, drilled at the correct height. A small amount of set up and that's it. The Bushing guide the pre-drill, Finish drill and Reamer.
It's not currently set up but you get the idea.
I also align my Receiver/ Cocking tube Welding set up with a length of 7/8" Dia Brass machined [stepped] to .729" for the tube at one end and .785" on the rest. This fits perfectly for PTR91 Receivers and just snug for SW 93 Receivers.
I am in the process of creating a SBR and want to remove my 16" barrel on my Coharie CA94 to be prepared for replacing it with an 8.5"barrel. Do I understand that the old barrel should be pressed into the receiver for removal? It appears that the front sight tower might be welded to the barrel which would make this impossible. Can/should I press the barrel out forward (from receiver toward muzzle) directionally speaking? Thoughts?
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I always press them out from the inside out (push in the direction of the muzzle) and if there's no front sight, install from the same direction. If the front sight is already installed, then they can be installed from the front towards the back. It's just easier as far as fixturing goes to press from the inside out. At least, with the fixturing I've built it is.
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Actually, the AGI video doesn't deal with pressing a barrel at all. They show you how to grind/peel away the old receiver, fit the trunnion to a new cast or stamped receiver, and then prepare for welding or pinning in the case of the aluminum receiver. The welds are not covered, nor is pressing the barrel, and the original barrel pin is left in place. I purchased the video expecting the finer points of pressing barrels and the required press setup to be covered as well, but it's basically useless if you already have any kind of clue about how the rifle works. The AGI armorer's video also skips over the spring wrestling required for trigger pack D&A, probably because it would be too hard to avoid cursing on the video.
Bummer. I was thinking about getting it as I now own a bunch of parts kits. I've got a machine shop in my basement, and have a general idea on how the HK roller locking system all works, but was looking to learn some of the finer points of assembly but I guess the AGI dvd is not the way to learn it.
Learning the 'hard way' is potentially dangerous where firearms are involved.
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? on Barrel pressing...
I over heard a friend at work talking a bearing on a Harley wheel and freezing before pressing....That got me to thinking What if ???....one were to freeze the barrel then take it to the press? would it give you more controll over the process of pressing a barrel? comments???? Don't mean to steel the thread...
I over heard a friend at work talking a bearing on a Harley wheel and freezing before pressing....That got me to thinking What if ???....one were to freeze the barrel then take it to the press? would it give you more controll over the process of pressing a barrel? comments???? Don't mean to steel the thread...
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