More than one of us have experience with them. Is it side to side or up and down play?

 

I have had to tap them down with a Nylon hammer. Carfullly of course!!

 

First let me thank you for your quick reply, I really appreciate it.
The play is up and down, no side to side play at all.

Barrel nut is genuine, new, and properly torqued.

 

Wow that snug? I wish I had that problem, this rail slid right on, hmmm.

 

Is the top of the rail (nearest to the upper receiver) flush with the "key" notch in the receiver?

 

Shortly, I may be limited in my ability to reply in a timely manner but here are some additional thoughts. How do you know the barrel nut is genuine? Do you know if the rail is genuine (there are some knockoffs)? Pictures speak a thousand words, so it might help to see the components in place. If you have calipers then grab a measurement of the nut.

 

Top or rail is what I believe to be acceptable as flush, it's looks/feels pretty damn close

 

I like Jnap have two that must be tapped on. I also have a couple that could drop on the gun and hit the receiver.


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Rail was purchased new from a reputable vendor, all packaging looks good, rail had a film of cosmoline on it, all signs point to a legit item.
Regarding the barrel nut, I have a couple of them so I measured them both with digital calipers and compared the measurements and they are identical, I can post measurements shortly.

I don't want to over torque the cross bolt and damage the damn thing, thinking I might just have to send it back to remington and have them send me a new one.

 

Deleted

 

What torque range would you say you're using? That is to say what is the maximum you have had to torque one of these things?

 

I've stripped 1 of three that wouldn't tighten down so more then you should. Give them a call before that occurs but they are considered limited runs and their normal mil/le guys won't touch them. Just specify 416 when you call and they'll follow up in a day or two


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here are a couple images

 

Hey thanks for the help man, much appreciated!

 

Looks like everything is as flush as it can be.

I don't know about torquing it down as the solution. The cross bolt simple mates with the groove in the barrel nut. If there isn't any side to side play that could suggest a tight fit with the width of the barrel nut groove but an up/down wiggle could suggest the depth of the nut is at issue.

Do you have an alternate rail bolt you could try?

 

I tried both of my barrel nuts with the same result. I don't have another cross bolt and I do see your point, I don't think it's the bolt

 

Honestly, I have never Torque it as I have used the Bolt Lug as it was designed for and just snuggled it up.

 

Do you have non marring Vise Jaws? If so, carefully of course, put in and try to take excess play out weather on or off gun. Be certain NOT to deform the ID. Also, you could send back for another, try different bbl nut, put several layers of cerakote on bbl nut until tight.. just my .02. Don't try to torque the screw it will strip..

 

Damn nice setup you have btw

 

At this point I think sending it back might be the best plan, roll the dice and hope for a better fit with the next one...

 

Like hamster I have had a couple that needed to be tightened to the point of me worrying about stripping it before the wobble went away. It has always been on the black ones - the cerakoted ones have been fine. Maybe remdef has issues with tolerances on some of these non-cerakoted versions. I would probably exchange it with the vendor for another, see if that helps. At that point decide how tight you feel comfortable going! Don't expect much (if any) help from remdef.

 

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post, it was a big help to hear from guys who knew what they were talking about, much appreciated.

 

Following all of the posts on this thread I haven't seen anyone mention or note that there are two different versions of the RAHG. I can't recall if its earlier production units or current production units but one of them have a steal threaded insert rather than just the aluminum itself being threaded. I have two that have the steal threaded insert in them but I do know of the units that don't have the insert where the bolt just screws directly into the threaded hole in the aluminum.

 

Correct there is!! I didn't feel like complicating matters anymore then needed.. Also, the insert is prone to being pulled out. Don't think so.. Check the attached picture if it let's me post it.. I was more inclined to give safe ways to fix the problem then the guy have an Ohhh Sh*T moment..

Almost forgot there are 3 different designs.. Insert, no insert, different size threading..;-)

 

What locking bolt does the one with different threading use? Thanks in advance!

 

they both use the same cross bolt. One has threads directly tapped into the rail, the other uses the time-sert. Could be some stripped and the inserts were later added, or they could be kicked out of the factory that way do to the limited runs of the rails. The one I had that had the insert looked a bit rough so it suggested it was stripped and the insert was a remedy added after the fact.

 

Sorry to revive this thread guys. I actually have the same issue. The 14.5” RAHG that I have, I attempted to mount on a brand new MR556 and have 1mm-2mm of vertical play towards the far end of the rail above and under the gas block. What did you guys mean when you said it had to be tapped on?

 

You really have to crank some of the attachment screws in on some of these.

My 14.5” RAHG has the same issue. But if I torque it down it stops.

BEWARE, You can over torque the screw and Strip the RAHG threads.

 

cough, cough, Geissele, cough, cough


sorry couldn't resist...