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Like hamster I have had a couple that needed to be tightened to the point of me worrying about stripping it before the wobble went away. It has always been on the black ones - the cerakoted ones have been fine. Maybe remdef has issues with tolerances on some of these non-cerakoted versions. I would probably exchange it with the vendor for another, see if that helps. At that point decide how tight you feel comfortable going! Don't expect much (if any) help from remdef.
 
Following all of the posts on this thread I haven't seen anyone mention or note that there are two different versions of the RAHG. I can't recall if its earlier production units or current production units but one of them have a steal threaded insert rather than just the aluminum itself being threaded. I have two that have the steal threaded insert in them but I do know of the units that don't have the insert where the bolt just screws directly into the threaded hole in the aluminum.
 
Following all of the posts on this thread I haven't seen anyone mention or note that there are two different versions of the RAHG. I can't recall if its earlier production units or current production units but one of them have a steal threaded insert rather than just the aluminum itself being threaded. I have two that have the steal threaded insert in them but I do know of the units that don't have the insert where the bolt just screws directly into the threaded hole in the aluminum.
Correct there is!! I didn't feel like complicating matters anymore then needed.. Also, the insert is prone to being pulled out. Don't think so.. Check the attached picture if it let's me post it.. I was more inclined to give safe ways to fix the problem then the guy have an Ohhh Sh*T moment..



Almost forgot there are 3 different designs.. Insert, no insert, different size threading..;-)
 
Correct there is!! I didn't feel like complicating matters anymore then needed.. Also, the insert is prone to being pulled out. Don't think so.. Check the attached picture if it let's me post it.. I was more inclined to give safe ways to fix the problem then the guy have an Ohhh Sh*T moment..

View attachment 43841

Almost forgot there are 3 different designs.. Insert, no insert, different size threading..;-)
Ahhh News to me regarding them coming in two different direct thread hole sizes. People mentioning of the possible fright of them stripping the hole is it regards to the ones with the threaded insert or the ones threaded directly? I believe Remington used Time-sert inserts for all of the inserts that they use on these rails as well as the other guns / rails they have aside of the RAHG which is supposedly top of the line and high quality. If the fear is with regards to stripping the threaded insert is it the insert itself or the threaded hole in the rail that the insert threads into?
 
Ahhh News to me regarding them coming in two different direct thread hole sizes. People mentioning of the possible fright of them stripping the hole is it regards to the ones with the threaded insert or the ones threaded directly? I believe Remington used Time-sert inserts for all of the inserts that they use on these rails as well as the other guns / rails they have aside of the RAHG which is supposedly top of the line and high quality. If the fear is with regards to stripping the threaded insert is it the insert itself or the threaded hole in the rail that the insert threads into?

Inserts are SS so they should not strip "as easily" there is the chance, as in the picture above, that the insert will spin and strip or pull out.. Not saying it's common, but...
 
they both use the same cross bolt. One has threads directly tapped into the rail, the other uses the time-sert. Could be some stripped and the inserts were later added, or they could be kicked out of the factory that way do to the limited runs of the rails. The one I had that had the insert looked a bit rough so it suggested it was stripped and the insert was a remedy added after the fact.
 
Sorry to revive this thread guys. I actually have the same issue. The 14.5” RAHG that I have, I attempted to mount on a brand new MR556 and have 1mm-2mm of vertical play towards the far end of the rail above and under the gas block. What did you guys mean when you said it had to be tapped on?
 
cough, cough, Geissele, cough, cough


sorry couldn't resist...
 
Sorry to revive this thread guys. I actually have the same issue. The 14.5” RAHG that I have, I attempted to mount on a brand new MR556 and have 1mm-2mm of vertical play towards the far end of the rail above and under the gas block. What did you guys mean when you said it had to be tapped on?
You really have to crank some of the attachment screws in on some of these.

My 14.5” RAHG has the same issue. But if I torque it down it stops.

BEWARE, You can over torque the screw and Strip the RAHG threads.
 
BEWARE, You can over torque the screw and Strip the RAHG threads.
That is why OFM HK screws have built in weak point to snap in case of over torque. Replacing screw is easier and cheaper than replacing handguard. Talking about HK over engineering ;)
 
I’ll only use the RAL8000 RAHGs because of this issue. I’ve replaced the 14” black RAHG on my 20” 416 upper with a Geissele. They really are a superior product. But I’ve kept my RAL8000 on one of my 10.4”, my shooter. I love how the RAHG fits my hand grip style, but the wobble in the black version just isn’t worth it. The G longrail is just rock solid on there.

I’ve been tempted to try the new slim line HKey 223/416 HGs as I have the G28 Patrol/417/308 shorty with integrated flip up sight on my 12” 762. I love it. But with owning a long and a short G rail I think I’ll save the money.
 
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