send it to Bill Springfield at triggerworks.com

 

The trigger reset on HK's are not that bad. I would say they are about average. If you want to feel an incredibly long trigger reset try a Sig P229. If you want to feel an incredibly short trigger reset try a 3rd gen S & W auto or a Beretta Cougar.

Bruce Gray at Grayguns has a rep for being the best in the business. He offers a very nice package for HK's and for an extra $85 he will nickel plate all the internals of the action for an incredibly smooth and durable action. Even at his regular price he re-coats the finish on any parts that have been polished. That's where my P2000 is going after I pick it up and get it broken in a little bit.

 

Yeah I know of several places to send it to if I want this done, and Bruce would be the guy I would be the guy I would ship it to. I was wanting to better understand the mechanics and which parts were involved with this process. I don't mind the reset and I'm quite use to it. I just like to know my firearms a lil more than how to remove the slide and clean the barrel.

 

Shortening the reset involves modification of the hammer and the sear, resulting in the necessary modification of the catch (so it doesn´t interfere yet works when it should). A PITA kind of work, if You ask me. On the other hand, the worst part for me was the re-angling of the hammer/sear interface as I wanted to lighten the trigger (a lot, i little sub 750g now) while using the original USP springs, meaning +2lbs than what is the factory match spring. Shortening the reset in this system also results in a necessity to remove the firing pin block which may be a no-go for many. I don´t know how far Bruce or Bill go with their customers´ guns; I obtained a 0.8mm reset while another user here, Montrala, went even further.

So yes, it can be done - but not without proper understanding, like following a picture tutorial.

Disclaimer : If You can´t figure it out Yourself, than don´t attempt anything. No pun intended, just common sense. When You don´t actually know WHAT, and most importantly WHY are You doing something, then You shouldn´t be doing it at all.

As for the overall function of thepistol´s mechanics... have You completed the detailed disassembly yet? Do so, it will let You understand better.

When pulling the trigger, the trigger bar (sliding exactly below the disconnector) pulls on the catch complete > try it with the slide removed, pull the trigger halfway - You´ll see the 2nd and 3rd part from the right moving against the flat spring. At the end of this movement, the catch exercises pressure on the sear pin, moving it away from under the hammer. BAM! Slide moves rearwards, pressing down on the disconnector. The disconnector presses on the trigger bar, which results in its´ sliding below the edge of the sear complete which is returned into its original position by the flat spring (firing pin block reengages at this point and the sear slides below the hammer again, so the gun is fully cocked). Slide returns forwards and the disconnector moves back up again. However, as You´re still holding the trigger back, the trigger bar is now in its´ forward position, below the catch complete. There´s a spring pressing on it from below, and as You relese the trigger slowly, it snaps up in its´ firing-ready position behind the catch complete when passing its´ edge. Thats the click You feel when the trigger resets. It may become less noticeable with (VERY) worn out parts, when edges aren´t realy sharp anymore. Such a situation shouldn´t affect the function, though.

Hope this helps a little LK

 

I obtained a 0.8mm reset while another user here, Montrala, went even further.

I obtained 0.6mm in my Expert, but I used more "brute force" ways than you used in yours, plus this can be influenced by overtravel setting. And my trigger was never as sweet as yours. This extremelly short resets (on level with custom 1911/2011) require match trigger with overtravel adjustment. Regular USP/P2000/P30 triggers can not be modified to so short reser, becouse overtravel comes into play.

I also don't hold my breath for HK to change standard trigger, but if they could offer upgraded version of match trigger for current line (including P30 etc.), this would be nice. Espcecially if those upgrades would be avaiable outside US.

 

Lukas,

Bruce Gray does not eliminate the firing pin block when he does his work and I don't believe that Bill Springfield eliminates it either. That would be something that should only be done on a competition gun, never a CCW pistol.

 

Firing pin block integrity is non-negotiable



Thanks for mentioning this. In truth, GGI has never, ever removed the firing pin block on any pistol, nor would we ever eliminate any safety features on any of our work. Our publicly stated and well-known standard of practice includes a functionng firing pin safety block and the enhancement of all factory safety system values in all carry and dual use action work.

(Without even asking, I can be sure in my assumption that Mr. Springfield, who's rightly well regarded for his great service, excellent pricing and clean trigger work, holds to a similar policy.)

That said, such wholesale deletion of a safety system isn't necessary in any event! Without intending to sound arrogant (for I hope I am not in the least bit), a professional gunmaker with a working understanding of engineering and metallurgy can be expected to know how to achieve the desired performance without in any way compromising the safety values of the arm. That's what we are paid to do, and that's what our lifetime guarantee supports.

A perfectly shootable, reduced-reset carry or competition action on the various USP, HK45, P30 and LEM-variant actions may be had without eliminating this utterly crucial safety feature if the correct work is performed perfectly. This work doesn't involve modifications to the hammer or scear, by the way.

FWIW, our comprehensive carry and competition actions are fundamentally and qualitatively the same, differing primarily in reset length and springing.

Removing this block on any service-type pistol is extremely hazardous in my considered opinion. I urge anyone who has done this to achieve a reduced reset to reconsider and restore their pistol to it's as-designed configuration. It matters to me that our fellow shooters understand what's at stake, for it's potentially nothing less than injury or death if the scear spring were to fail during firing, as USP scear springs are known to do. Thank you for giving me this opportunity to make this plain, and thanks to our many friends for your generous comments and feedback regarding our reduced-reset HK action packages. My crew and I here in the Secret Grayguns Volcano Base are much appreciative.

I haven't been on HKPro too much lately and will try to be more accessible here to answer questions and help out where I can. Thank you again.

-Bruce

Grayguns Inc.
33479 Hwy. 19-207
Spray, Oregon 97874
541-468-3840

 

...and that´s why You don´t shorten the reset on CCW pistols to the ragged edge Note that what he´s offering on his website now is 25 to 50% reduction, which is aiming for approximately 3mm reset resulting from the job. That leaves enough amount of travel for the internals to work the FPB. Unfortunately, sub-1mm reset isn´t compatible with that action anymore.

 

Hi! Bruce Gray here. True, nor is it necessary to take reset to that ragged edge for the USP action to be highly competitive in my opinion. As HK-USA's shooter from 1999 through 2002 driving the both the .40 Expert and USP9F in USPSA/IPSC, I believe I was able to demonstrate that fact to anyone's objective satisfaction. Sure, the factory reset is too long for anyone who preps the trigger to run quickly enough, but there are too many other factors which influence and perhaps limit the USP's overall competitiveness for an extra millimeter or two in reset to make any real, crucial difference in your scores unless all you shoot are Bill Drills at five yards.

With all respect to your alternative views and experience, I urge you to reconsider any statements that would presume to advise shooters to deactivate safety systems in their pistols, no matter the application. Thank you for considering my well-intentioned opinion. I only seek to keep people safe.

-Bruce

 

There is definitely a way -- and a fairly easy one, at that -- to re-engineer the USP/P2000 series guns for a shorter reset. I'm trying to twist some arms at HK to get them to explore it. Meeting with them on Thursday and this will be one of the things we discuss. Wish me luck.

 

My P2000 reset seems to be about twice as long as my USP. I would be happy if my P2000 was shortened to that of the USP.

 

@Todd: I wish You luck, but don´t hold my breath for it... Shorter reset in this kind of actions means lesser play and more accurate tolerances. Both of these can compromise reliability in severe conditions, like resistance to dirt. And as these are primarily service and duty weapons, it´s pretty clear to what expectances they have to be built. We can´t have the best from both worlds I´m afraid...

 

Thanks Lukas, that helps me with the visual I was trying to get. One thing I've noticed, in firing SA with the slide off, the trigger doesn't have to come all the way forward before the catch releases the sear and lets the hammer fall again. I also like the trigger pull better(I currently have the firing pin and block out). I'm assuming it's due to not having the block. It would make sence to remove the block for a comp. pistol since there wouldn't be any need for a decock.