[jkv45]

Picked up my CA-3 yesterday.

About what I expected. Fairly rough in spots. The finish looks to be Parkerizing, which is different from other PTR/Century rifles. The finish looks decent.

The rear sight is smashed, and i called Century to see if they would do anything about it. The guy I talked to in CS said "we no longer service the CA-3". I said no longer - didn't they just come out? He said talk to PTR. I tried to call PTR, but they were not accepting calls. I guess I'll have to email them. (EDIT: just spoke to PTR, and they are sending a new rear sight - no problem)

I had planned to refinish the entire rifle, but probably won't now because it's Parkerized. The lower could use some touch-ups, but it's not bad. The handguard has some corners missing, but I have a decent set of green German furniture I plan to install.

Overall, not bad for right about $800 delivered.

Some photos -

 

[Mike0987]

Picked up my CA-3 yesterday.

About what I expected. Fairly rough in spots. The finish looks to be Parkerizing, which is different from other PTR/Century rifles. The finish looks decent.

The rear sight is smashed, and i called Century to see if they would do anything about it. The guy I talked to in CS said "we no longer service the CA-3". I said no longer - didn't they just come out? He said talk to PTR. I tried to call PTR, but they were not accepting calls. I guess I'll have to email them.

I had planned to refinish the entire rifle, but probably won't now because it's Parkerized. The lower could use some touch-ups, but it's not bad. The handguard has some corners missing, but I have a decent set of green German furniture I plan to install.

Overall, not bad for right about $800 delivered.

Some photos -
View attachment 466093

View attachment 466097
View attachment 466095
View attachment 466094

Your lower is in much better shape finish wise than mine is, but my rear sight wasn't mangled so I guess that's the trade off. Mine is still running strong 500 rounds later with 0 issues other than the 1 FTE I had in the first 150 rounds

 

[jkv45]

Your lower is in much better shape finish wise than mine is, but my rear sight wasn't mangled so I guess that's the trade off. Mine is still running strong 500 rounds later with 0 issues other than the 1 FTE I had in the first 150 rounds

I edited my post to include that I spoke to PTR, and they are sending a new rear sight.

They were really good about it, with no hassles. Century had no clue...

 

[Mike0987]

I edited my post to include that I spoke to PTR, and they are sending a new rear sight.

They were really good about it, with no hassles. Century had no clue...

Yeah I guess they just facilitated the purchase of the kits and told PTR to put century arms on it and that was probably the extent of their involvement, which is probably for the best

 

[blfuller]

That phosphate finish is an excellent base for a spray on finish. Degrease thoroughly and apply your favorite finish to make it look like a million $.

 

[jkv45]

That phosphate finish is an excellent base for a spray on finish. Degrease thoroughly and apply your favorite finish to make it look like a million $.

I thought about it, but if Park is the correct finish for a Portuguese G3, I will leave it as is.

Judging from the original trigger housing, it's pretty close.

I powder coated my entire C308 in a satin black powder, and I like it, but I want to keep this one looking as original as possible.

C308 -

 

[blfuller]

I thought about it, but if Park is the correct finish for a Portuguese G3, I will leave it as is.

Judging from the original trigger housing, it's pretty close.

CETME looks nice. Your grip frame was refinished after it was clipped to interface with the receiver. The original finish, or what's left of it, is what's on the end plate. Probably was manganese phosphate. To maintain the original appearance I would get it refinished to match or a replacement that was already refinished.

 

[jkv45]

CETME looks nice. Your grip frame was refinished after it was clipped to interface with the receiver. The original finish, or what's left of it, is what's on the end plate. Probably was manganese phosphate. To maintain the original appearance I would get it refinished to match or a replacement that was already refinished.

Was it? As Mike 0987 said, his was pretty rough, so it doesn't sound like they completely refinished them. The letters (S, E, F) on the left side don't look like they have been redone.

Not sure if they touched it up after modifying it, but the trigger guard has some open spots and a little rust here and there.

How does manganese phosphate differ, visually, from Parkerizing?

 

[blfuller]

Manganese phosphate is the same as parkerizing. There's three types of parkerizing, iron, manganese and zinc. Manganese is the dark gray and zinc is much lighter in color. Manganese is typically the one used for firearms these days. Zinc was more prevalent back in WWII. Iron is typically used as a primer for other finishes.

"Parkerizing" is a commercial term named after Clark W. Parker, along with his son Wyman C. Parker, working together, set up the Parker Rust-Proof Phosphating Company of America in 1915.

 

[jkv45]

I haven't had mine to the range yet, but I did field strip, clean, and lube it last night.

Bolt was ok, but I cleaned it anyway. Bolt gap was .015".

The trigger group was pretty dirty, and the ejector was not moving freely until I cleaned it and lubed it.

Then I noticed the end of the cocking lever spring was sticking out. Either it's not in the right place or the spring broke. I started trying to drive the pin out, but it's pretty snug. The cocking handle is a PTR item as well, and I plan to replace it and the spring.

The pin for the cocking lever is driven out from the bottom, and installed from the top - correct?

EDIT - ^ That is correct.

 

[jasont57]

Manganese phosphate is the same as parkerizing. There's three types of parkerizing, iron, manganese and zinc. Manganese is the dark gray and zinc is much lighter in color. Manganese is typically the one used for firearms these days. Zinc was more prevalent back in WWII. Iron is typically used as a primer for other finishes.

"Parkerizing" is a commercial term named after Clark W. Parker, along with his son Wyman C. Parker, working together, set up the Parker Rust-Proof Phosphating Company of America in 1915.

Posts like this are why I check these forums regularly. I learn something new all the time. Thanks for the great content

 

[Motorolanut]

Mine were in the same general shape as jkv45's. Minus the dented rear drum sight. As I purchased these at a LGS, I was able to inspect first. It appears to be hit or miss with the finish on the metal lower and the butt stock recoil rod pack assembly have a heavily worn finish. Overall a great price for someone that just wants a occasional shooter and does not want to pay $300+ more for a full blown PTR.

 

[jkv45]

I saw a video the other day about the CA-3 where the guy, an experienced gun-tuber, kept calling it a "Cetme". Then I saw an ad for it at Centerfire Systems that also called it a Cetme.

The Century Cetme is a C308. The CA-3 is a Portuguese G3-based parts kit build with some new U.S. and incorrect parts. It's not a Cetme.

Not sure why they can't get it right.

 

[bluezebra]

It's Not a Cetme.

 

[Motorolanut]

Send your trigger pack and buffer out to Bill Springfield for his trigger job and improved buffer. You will NOT be disappointed. Shameless plug for Bill. LOL

Home

triggerwork.net

 

[jkv45]

Send your trigger pack and buffer out to Bill Springfield for his trigger job and improved buffer. You will NOT be disappointed. Shameless plug for Bill. LOL

Home

triggerwork.net

I actually received and installed his buffer kit today. I have installed the kits in all my G3-pattern rifles.

Dealing with the 8# trigger for now.

 

[jkv45]

Made a few improvements and replaced the damaged rear sight.

Ready to hit the range and see how it does. My other .308 Century/PTR rifles like Federal 168gr GMM. The Cetme C308 shoots about 2 MOA (iron sights) and my PTR91 DMR has done 1.3 MOA at 100.

I'll be happy if this is in the 2.5 MOA range at 100 with iron sights. The G3 sights are OK, but not the best for precision for me at this point.

I was looking for something to put my decent German green furniture on, and this fit the bill - which was right about $800 delivered.

I know it's just a mixmaster of parts - but I like!

 

[HKGypsy]

If they had the lug for the mount I'm thinking the mounts would be going extinct.

 

[jkv45]

Had my CA-3 out for the first time this weekend.

Not great results.

I shot some Saltech and Igman M80 equivalent, and also some 168gr GMM. None of it was better than maybe 4 MOA - even the GMM. Some of it can be attributed to me and my struggles with open sights, so chances are it's better than that. I actually had the wrong shooting glasses on, which didn't help.

One issue did come up, and I need to talk to PTR about it (Century doesn't do any warranty work on the CA-3).

The rear sight is all the way over to the right, and it's still consistently shooting left. The elevation is also off, and I was using the "4" (400) setting on the rear sight to get the POI to be on the POA at 100 yards.

How is the elevation adjusted on the HK-style rear sight?

It did function fine all day with no issues.

 

[blfuller]

Sight elevation adjustment is covered here. A hemostat or needle nosed pliers also works for elevation adjustment if you don't have the proper tool.